... I want to thoroughly enjoy my Roman holiday!
When I was a child the sound produced by a storm or a passing train always comforted me and as I'd try to analyze why I'd eventually fall asleep and wake up in the morning to the squawk of a nearby rooster, a sound that didn't comfort me so much, haha. I am not exactly sure why I liked the sound of trains and thunder as a kid (feel free to psychoanalyze) but I must admit that the childhood feeling of comfort I'd get from a storm didn't make it into my adulthood. Storms somewhat terrify me now and my mind races to tsunamis, floods, and hurricanes immediately without intention. Last night I slept very little and very terribly thanks 1) to the cot excused as a bed I've adopted whilst here in Rome and 2) because the storm making its way thru Rome was one of the most intense I've heard in awhile! It's now morning but the aftermath of the storm has left the streets wet and vacant so before getting myself together and venturing out I will give them some time to dry, and also try this blogging thing again....
So, I've been in Italy for five days! I arrived in Venice by way of Zurich and Milan on Monday via my favorite method of transport, rail of course. Not only was I thinking of the environment when I opted to purchase a Eurail pass pass instead of various flights some months ago but I was also really looking forward to experiencing European "countryside" through the window view trains provide. The ride from and through Switzerland to Venice was phenomenal! I can only imagine how much prettier these two countries are when the weather is better and the existence of greenery is present. Italy and Switzerland may provide some of the best camera-ready panoramic views in the summer and spring, as seen in many movies, but winter is real 'round these parts so snow adds a true characteristic of its own and although it deterred somewhat from film images I've seen many a time it was still beautiful and enjoyable and alas, novel for my California-American eyes.
2.1.10
The Santa Lucia train station, not to be confused with station Mestre, in Venice is easy to find and provides for a landmark by which to navigate yourself around in the city that is famous for its canals, bridges and gondolas. I arrived at Santa Lucia and was by some miracle,apparently, able to find my hotel/ hostel in about 20 minutes after arrival. After checking in I made my way to my room of 8 beds to find no one there so because it was nearing dinner time and as usual on a day of train transit, I had yet to eat a meal, I left the hostel in search of a supermarket. My goal was to find something I could easily prepare and consume without the use of a stove, microwave, plates etc. I found Coop market without confusion and began to wonder if the horror stories I'd heard about getting lost in Venice were all just myth? Venice is shaped like a fish and therefore rather circular; how hard can it be? The market was fascinating and just like I pictured; very "Italian"! I am such a food and travel dork that it may or may not always be amusing to you but I was happy. There are rows of wine and olive oil, a fresh olive bar with a man in a big white chef hat to serve you, fresh-baked breads of every sort, and a non-smelly meat department that I could only appreciate for not only the lack of stench but also because it made the visual I had imagined complete in reality. The best part for me at the time is that in the fresh and vibrant produce section I found pre-packaged salads sans meat, eggs, or cheese (you'd be surprised how hard it is to find a simple vegan salad in Europe) and there next to the salads were cute individual bottles of olive oil infused with various vegetables including pepperocinis and garlic... mmmmm! I settled on a vine-ripe tomato, half a baguette, a salad, oil w/ garlic and 2 clementines for dessert and headed back to the hotel eager to eat the fresh veggies but let's face it I was more excited about the bread and oil... this is Italy after all! When I got back to the room I again found nobody else there so I tried to eat as cleanly as I could at the end of my bed. As I was finishing my dinner up a girl from Ukraine named Anastassia came in; we shared conversation about travel, life, education and politics over the clementines that we had each separately purchased. Time flew by and it was nearly bed time. As we were brushing our teeth and getting ready to sleep two guys from Japan came in with the intention to drink a liter of Heineken and inquire about our lives in between hysterical laughter so, it ended up being a typical hostel stay! haha...
2.2.10
I was able to secure a place to stay with Marta from CouchSurfing who had responded to my somewhat desperate request in record timing. Her and her flatmate, Gaia, are studying for their Masters in Contemporary Art and have nearly identical schedules during the day that allow for a mid-day siesta, of course. We had arranged to meet at their place between 1 and 2:45 pm. I checked out of the hostel at 10, left my bags behind and made my way through "streets", across bridges and over canals to spend the morning in Piazza San Marco. I walked around and inside the basilica most commonly known as St. Mark's Basilica, the namesake of the piazza, took in the sight of Doge's Palace that was undergoing typical winter renovations and took in the breathtaking view of Venice. The piazza is not only a central meeting grounds in Venice, full of history, but it provides a great vantage point of experiencing the ways of the water transit system as it opens up into a lagoon connected with The Grand Canal, Venice's main waterway. The sun was shining and the Vitamin D immediately had a positive and sunny affect on me and my zealous photo-taking!
L to R: St. Mark's Clocktower, The Basilica and Doge's Palace AKA Piazza San Marco!.. the stages around me were being set up in anticipation of Carnevale.
View from the water's edge at Piazza San Marco
After visiting THE piazza, I continued walking and came across the Royal Gardens and went to The Accademia where I paid a 10 euro entry fee to only find out that the pieces of art I wanted to see most, particularly those by Bellini e.g. Madonna and Child Blessing, were being restored and many of the rooms were closed! I love art, don't get me wrong, but there are only so many pre-19th century, faded, depictions of Jesus Christ and his disciples I can look at in silence before I crave running through the halls hoping to find something modern or contemporary, to no avail. After I completed my hour in The Accademia I started heading back toward the train station to orient myself in order to find Marta's flat. On my way to Santa Lucia I felt some hunger building up so I started checking out menus at the street cafes I was passing and instead chose a "self-service" ristorante because the prices seemed decent and the food looked appetizing! I ordered fettuccine and mushrooms doused in oil and parsley. The color was a bit yellow so I was sure to ask if it was oil and not butter used and if the noodles were eggless. The woman who served me spoke English pretty well and understood my broken Italian so I trusted her answer! It was really quite yummy for being cafeteria style! Also it was nice to have a place to sit and read w/ a really awesome view of the bustling Grand Canal.
My "self-serve" meal of fettuccine and funghi. I wrote down the name of ristorante but the page fell out of my planner... hopefully I'll recall it soon!
After my solo-lunch ( I am getting really professional at eating alone) I headed back over the canal, through the windy streets and to the other side of Venice where I was to meet my hosts. The other side of Venice is basically the right side of Venice as you walk out of the Termini train station. The left side is definitely the more touristy side whereas the right side is more residential and university oriented. Marta and Gaia met me near a bridge near their flat (explaining directions if you haven't been there is really pointless so I'll spare you!) and we went upstairs for some chit-chatting before we separated them, for class and me for some book reading at a cafe nearby. When we met back up at their flat later we went out to a local bar and I had my first "spritz". A spritz is basically a wine spritzer and not really a favorite of mine but when in Venice, I had to!
2.3.10
I spent the better part of the day doing random activities with Marta and Gaia. Marta took me to the bottom part of "the fish" aka Venice where you stand on this really small peninsula and are surrounded by water on both sides. It was a really awesome view and this particularly famous statue locally translated as "naked boy holding frog" was being guarded by a very awkward guard man who was even more awkward than the idea of a naked boy child statue.
On our way back to the flat we stopped to buy ingredients to make pumpkin risotto! My hosts thought intently about what we could make that fit into vegan parameters. It was really delicious, simple and I am happy to have a new recipe to add to my worldly collection!
Gaia and Marta peeling the squash for the risotto; I helped too!
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